Almost every skin care addict has been lured at one time or another to purchase an extravagant cream, such as Cle de Peau La Creme (said to be a favorite of Heather Locklear) at $500.00 for 1 oz. But are expensive moisturizers in general worth the extra cost?
Are department store products always better than drugstore products?
In general, no. Although department-store skin care giants like Estée Lauder (maker of Clinique, Origins, MAC, amongst others) and Elizabeth Arden have traditionally had large budgets to devote to skin care sales, drugstore giants like L’Oréal (also maker of Lancome) and Johnson and Johnson (of Aveeno and Neutrogena, amongst others) regularly make advances in the skin care industry. For instance, L’Oréal has exclusive rights to Pro-XylaneTM , an ingredient that stimulates collagen and hyaluronic acid production, and Johnson and Johnson purchased rights to extract irritating parthenolide from feverfew extract, which is a very potent antioxidant that has soothing properties without parthenolide (which, ironically, is an irritant).
As prominent beauty critic Paula Begoun points out, “Price doesn’t matter, regardless of price they all make the same claims and promise their ingredients are the best…Even within the same cosmetic company like Esteé Lauder, who sells dozens of anti-wrinkle products, doesn’t have consistent formulas!” As such, it seems that your best option is to find skin care formulations with ingredients that are used in higher concentrations by prescription, such as hydroquinone, retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids, and beta hydroxy acids, or which have been established to be effective in numerous independent scientific studies, such as antioxidants, broad-spectrum (UVA/UVB) sunscreens, petrolatum and niacinamide. Effective ingredients can be found in both department store and drugstore formulations. It is probably best to research ingredients and combinations of ingredients first, and then find them in products, rather than the other way around, to avoid all of the marketing hype.
Why aren’t concentrations listed on skin care products?
The FDA regulates drugs, which then must undergo years of trials establishing safety and efficacy. Some chemicals found in drugs, as hydroquinone, are then approved in higher concentrations for pharmaceutical drugs, and lower concentrations for over-the-counter products.
However, the FDA does not regulate cosmetics. According to Dr. Leslie Baumann, Director of Cosmetic Dermatology at the University of Miami, “Cosmetic products do not have to be researched in any way because FDA approval is not required. Instead, cosmetic products are voluntarily registered by the companies that develop them.” As Baumann goes on to state, this means that it is “easier and cheaper” for companies to develop cosmetics rather than drugs, and “companies are reluctant to publish data that could cause their product to be labeled as a drug.” This makes the situation difficult for the consumer indeed.
What are some effective drugstore products?
Some products that dermatologists commonly recommend include:
1. Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser ($10.75, Amazon.com) has been recommended since 1947. Cetaphil cleanser is gentle and pH-balanced, and different formulations are sold for different skin types. According to cosmetic chemist Ni’Kita Wilson, “I’ve created cleansers with over 40 ingredients; this one has eight — and when you have sensitive or inflamed skin, less is more.”
2. Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunblock SPF 70 ($18.49 for two, Amazon.com), which is arguably the best UVA protection on the market. Although Mexoryl, an ingredient found in L’Oréal RevitaLift UV, absorbs UVA at a higher wavelength range than Helioplex (found in Neutrogena sunscreens), Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunblock SPF 70 has been reported to have a PFA value (a measure of UVA efficacy) of 23.3 or 26.5, interestingly higher than the reported PFA value of 10 for Mexoryl. However, no single study directly measuring the PFA value of each has yet been published. Still, experts rave about Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunblock SPF 70. One caveat: you may want to avoid the product if you are pregnant or nursing (although, based on current scientific evidence, this is not necessary).
3. Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream SPF 15 ($24.23 for two, Amazon.com), which contains a fairly high concentration of retinol and antioxidant green tea. According to dermatologist Mary Lupo in the October 2007 Allure magazine: “With regular use, this cream improves skin’s brightness, color, and texture, and softens existing lines and crepiness. If you start using it in your twenties, before you see these changes, you could push them off further.” One caveat: you may want to avoid the product if you are pregnant or nursing (although, based on current scientific evidence, this is not necessary).
What are some effective department store products?
Some of the most effective department store products are:
1. Skinceuticals CE Ferulic ($103.70, Amazon.com). I personally have been using this product since I was in high school (and would use an entire month’s allowance on it!) The product is actually backed by an independent 2003 study by Lin et. al. which affirmed that a solution of 15% L-ascorbic acid and 1% alpha-tocopherol (such as that found in Skinceuticals CE Ferulic) increases photoprotection against damaging UV rays and free radical formation. The product has also been reported to reduce 96% of sunburned cells. Using this product under a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen during the day, and a retinoids-rich moisturizer at night (retinoids unless you are pregnant or nursing) should help to combat the signs of aging.
1b. Esteé Lauder Daywear Plus Multi Protection Anti-Oxidant Lotion SPF 30 ($38.00, Estée Lauder.com). Similar to Skinceuticals CE Ferulic, Esteé Lauder Daywear Plus Multi Protection Anti-Oxidant Lotion SPF 30 provides a blend of antioxidants to fight aging. Unfortunately, independent scientific studies of this product in particular are not available as for the Skinceuticals CE Ferulic, and this product does not contain network antioxidants that synergistically enhance the power of one another like Skinceuticals CE Ferulic does. But, Esteé Lauder Daywear Plus Multi Protection Anti-Oxidant Lotion SPF 30 is substantially cheaper, and women like it because they do not have to layer a sunscreen over it. (Listed as 1b because it virtually serves the same purpose as Skinceuticals).
2. Revalé Skin Night Cream with 1% Coffeeberry ($99.00, PrSkincare.com). According to results published in Allure magazine, the texture and tone of the skin treated with CoffeeBerry extract showed 46 per cent improvement in fine lines and wrinkles, 64 per cent in overall skin smoothness, and 79 per cent in skin hydration. CoffeeBerry may be so effective because it combats free radicals throughout the entire skin cell, unlike many other antioxidants, which are limited to specific areas of the cell. Using this night cream over a compatible treatment with retinoids would be an excellent way to incorporate a high concentration of coffee berry into your skin care regimé. I wrote more about this ingredient here.
Is this is a comprehensive list?
By all means, no. The best way to find the right products is to consult with your dermatologist. Another great way to find the right products specifically for you is to consult Dr. Leslie Baumann’s The Skin Type Solution, which recommends products from drugstores and department stores specific to your skin type. A third way is to stay informed on current scientific literature on the cosmetic industry. Paula Begoun has a very informative site on the cosmetics industry and products, and a comprehensive book, Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, with reviews of thousands of products. Sometimes I write product reviews based on what I know and research, and hopefully, as I learn more throughout my education and career, my reviews will only improve.
In summary…
In summary, great skin care products can be found for any amount of money. Try not to be lured by fancy marketing schemes and ploys, and try to seek out effective ingredients or combinations of ingredients with independent scientific research backing or unaffiliated expert recommendations. Most of all, consult your dermatologist. Even if you already have great skin, a good cosmetic dermatologist can make the most of what you already have.
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